Buddha inside the Kopan Temple, where monks pray (puja). I was very fortunate to be allowed inside, as I arrived a few minutes before their lunch and they lock up this particular building (temple) for an hour. The monk told me to take as much time as I needed for photographs.
For my 3rd day in Kathmandu (this would be the day before yesterday), I wanted to explore my immediate surroundings in Boudhanath, the ancient town where my hotel was, as well as do a long trek to stretch my legs. The Shambaling hotel concierge suggested that I walk to Kopan Monastery, which overlooks the valley of Kathmandu and is north of Boudhanath. This would be a perfect day, if only because the Pashupatinath festival, with 1.5 million pilgrims in attendance, would all be on the south side of Kathmandu. Obviously, I wanted to avoid that congestion if at all possible. Of course, this would not be an easy hike, as it is approximately 4-5 miles away and the last mile or so ascends at a severe grade.
House rules at Kopan Monastery.
While walking to the monastery, especially after the first couple of miles, I couldn’t help thinking, “. . . You’re not in Kansas anymore Dorothy.” Why was I thinking this? Well, let’s just say that I was the only foreigner in the area – I quickly figured out that most tourists took a taxi cab to the monastery. As I walked by shop proprietors, people tending food kiosks, women washing dishes in large tubs near their homes, etc., all eyes were diverted from each of their tasks and directed at me as I passed by. They weren’t hostile looks at all, but if I was to guess, I would imagine they were thinking, “Is this dude lost?” For me personally, I have found that when you are in a situation like this, it’s best to smile and walk with confidence. Never look away from anyone who is looking at you. That being said, always approach anyone with deference, courtesy, and respect, if you need to ask a question, e.g., directions . . . Which I did a few times on the way to the monastery.
The road I took to access the Kopan Monastery. Notice the Buddhist monks on their way to the town of Boudhanath.
On arrival at the gates to Kopan Monastery, I was struck by something I have seen repeated time and time again in Kathmandu. All hotels, other medium and large businesses, monasteries, and temples have armed guards. Go to a burger joint like McDonald’s and they will have an armed guard. They’re probably not there to guard the hamburger patties either.
A very large prayer wheel. By the way, if you want to demonstrate your unfamiliarity or ignorance about a prayer wheel, spin it counter-clockwise.
The monastery has magnificent views of the Kathmandu valley, as well as some rather large peaks, north of the city. A large beautiful Bodhi tree towers over the monastery. It’s my understanding that the monastery was once the home to the King of Nepal’s astrologer. Lamas first came to this place in 1969 and shortly thereafter, began teaching western students. Today, Kopan has approximately 350 monks, mainly from Nepal and Tibet. It is also home to a nearby nunnery, called Khachoe Ghakyil Ling, where 380 nuns reside.
Beautiful water fall and bridge, near the main temple.
Monks and nuns from the age of 7 come from all over the Himalayan region, including India, Tibet, Mongolia, and of course, Nepal to attend courses on a classical monastic lifestyle. Courses in philosophy, debate, and tantric studies. Additionally, the monks and nuns assemble twice a day for prayers (puja) dedicated to the well-being and happiness of “all sentient beings.” Additionally, the monastery has accommodations and courses for foreign students. They are fairly inexpensive and in no way does the monastery profit. In conclusion, I was quite impressed with the Kopan Monastery. I can’t explain it, but I experienced a certain “calm” while walking the beautiful grounds of the monastery. I would highly recommend visiting this monastery if you are in Kathmandu. A wonderful place to spend a serene and peaceful day.
Entrance to main Buddhist temple at Kopan Monastery.
Inside the temple, with prayer mats spread on the floor.
Drum used in Buddhist rituals.
Where monks pray.
Buddhist shrine.
A close up of this shrine.
I am not certain what these two figures are, but I suspect the bottom figure is Buddha.
Viewed from outlook, the beautiful grounds and city of Kathmandu in background.
One of the monastery temple buildings.
Serene park like grounds.
Quotations such as this from various lamas, including the Dalai Lama, dot the temple walls.
Stupas. These usually house ancient relics of the Buddhist faith.
Unusual figurine guarding the entrance into the temple.
This older blond woman was complaining to the monks (sitting down) that she had driven from the city to buy something at the monastery library, but it was closed for lunch. She demanded that it be opened for her. No wonder the monks pray for us. Hilarious.
Small farm I passed going up and coming down from the monastery.
Steve, I think I mentioned to you in Bangkok, if you’re looking for some interesting reading (fiction, but with a lot of real references), pick up John Burdett’s “The Godfather of Kathmandu”. He’s written a series of Bangkok-based “thrillers” that capture the local scene pretty well, and this particular one in the series spends a lot of time in Kathmandu. You’d relate well to all the Bangkok scenes and now also in Nepal… Journey on, Steve!
Hi Paul. I am going to download that book (this will be a first time for me doing this). I think the WIFI connection I have can handle it via Amazon. I received some pictures from my Oz buddies regarding that Thailand trek and just posted them. When you get a chance, take a look. I have some sort of crud (dust?) that affected me a bit yesterday, but went on a long hike today with this Swiss gal that I met at my hotel. She is about to go on a 9 day trek in the Himalayas, so this was probably child’s play for her today.
Great pictures, informative post
Thanks Bob. I finally got some pictures from my Thailand trek that I posted this evening. Now that was an interesting experience. Ha.
“Is this dude lost?” I think people think that a lot about me. Glad you are out and about seeing it all.
Yes, it’s all good (umm, well most of it is). Thank you TBM for stopping by.