View from the peak of Mt. Shivapuri.
The day before yesterday, I went on an amazing one day trek at Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. Specifically, I climbed Mt. Shivapuri, which overlooks the Kathmandu valley. The peak rises 2732 meters (8963 feet) and the trek length is a bit over 6 kilometers. It’s suggested that you allow 2 hours for the journey up to the top of the peak and perhaps, a bit shorter time for the return trip. At the end of the trail is a Buddhist Temple and Stupa.
My hiking companion, Ursina Caminada.
Prior to doing this hike, I met someone at breakfast, Ursina Caminada, who is from Switzerland. She is going to be part of a 9 day “all female” Annapurna trek, but had a few days on her hands before it began. After chatting a bit and getting to know one another at breakfast, we decided that we would do this hike together the next day.
This is an unusual feature of the trail – almost the entire length is constructed of concrete stairs. Ursina and I agreed this must have been “back breaking” work to accomplish, as the trail grade is almost completely vertical, without too many switchbacks. In the United States and Switzerland, trails are almost always constructed of the natural resources found at each park.
The trail head begins at a guard house, where approximately a half dozen soldiers stand sentry. For what purpose, I have no idea. The park entry fee cost for foreigners is 750 rupees (almost $7 dollars U.S. currency) per person. I am glad I always keep a copy of my passport in my wallet because the registration process at the trail head is quite thorough. We had already arranged for our taxi driver to wait for us – the total fee being 2000 rupees (less than $20 U.S) . . . He estimated that it would take us an hour to get to the top (wrong . . . most web sites indicate 2 hours minimum as I noted above); an hour to explore the Buddhist temple and stupa at the peak; and, an hour to return. We still were able to almost “adhere” to his schedule by cutting short our exploration at the top to about a half hour and completing the round trip trek in a little over 3 hours. Regardless, he did not charge us an additional fee.
Taking a break before continuing to the top.
Frankly, Ursina and I are in excellent shape and we are both acclimated to high altitude living, thus the trek wasn’t too difficult to complete . . . Conversely, anyone that lives at sea level and/or is out of shape, they would definitely have a problem doing this hike (especially with the lack of trail switchbacks and hard concrete surface).
Ursina and I took a few photos at this ridge, which had an excellent outlook of the surrounding Kathmandu valley.
Shivapuri lies in a transition zone between sub-tropical and temperate climates, The vegetation consists of a variety of pine, oak, rhododendrum, etc., depending on the altitude. Black bears, rhesus monkeys, and leopards are some of the mammals found at the park. There are also 177 species of birds, including 9 threatened species; 102 species of butterflies; and, 129 types of mushrooms.
Up, up, and away! There are very few switchbacks on this trail. Unlike U.S. and Swiss parks, this Nepal trail ascends straight up.
View from the peak.
The mountain is a watershed for Kathmandu, providing approximately 30 million liters of drinking water daily to the city; with the main sources coming from the sacred rivers Bagmati and Bishnumatii. The area has always been an important “catch basement” for water, but it wasn’t until 1976, that the government of Nepal established the area as a protected watershed and environmental/wildlife preserve.
On the metal platform.. Top of the world Ma . . . OK, OK, it’s not exactly Mt. Everest.
When you reach the top of the peak, you find a metal platform to view the city of Kathmandu and the valley. If not for the constant dust and other airborne pollutants that pervades Kathmandu, you would be able to easily see most of the Himalayan mountain range. Unfortunately, the pollution is so bad, that it’s quite difficult to see beyond the haze that envelopes the city. I thoroughly enjoyed this hike and would recommend it to anyone who is in fairly good shape. Enjoy the photos which follow . . .
Despite the pollution, the views were magnificent.
Buddhist Stupa
Shrine dedicated to Guru Rimpoche, who brought Buddhism to Tibet in the 8th century. I mistakenly thought this was a shrine to Buddha at first, until speaking with the Shambaling hotel owner – she correctly identified this “yogi” as Guru Rimpoche. Thank you!
Colorful drawings inside the temple shrine.
The opposite wall inside the same shrine.
Gold inlaid carvings at roof line of this shrine.
Stupa viewed from the metal platform.
Rear of the shrine.
Hindu Goddess Lakshmi, who is the goddess of wealth and prosperity at the base of the Buddhist Stupa. I was really stumped why I have seen Hindu Gods and Goddesses at Buddhist temples and the opposite at Hindu temples. This was cleared up somewhat when I spoke to the reception clerk at my hotel, who said that many Gods, rituals, shrines, etc., are shared by both religions. This is a good website to learn more about this goddess:
http://www.koausa.org/Gods/God6.html
The temple is in very bad shape and donations are not sufficient to repair this and other parts of the shrine that require restoration. This is something that I have seen repeated at all the temples and shrines I have visited. It is a very poor country and the government has a difficult time providing services to the citizens, much less for maintenance of historical landmarks.
Ursina noticed this far earlier than I did – the rhododendron are in full bloom. Equally important, they grow on “tree” size bushes. In the United States and Switzerland, you will never find them on shrubbery this size.
Top of Stupa.
Votive shrines.
Nargarjun is considered to be the second most important figure behind Buddha. If you would like to know more about the legendary Buddhist teacher and philosopher, Nagarjun (also known as Nagarjuna), this Wikipedia web site is a good start:
Steve that is so awesome! I’m glad you had a hiking partner as you seem to trust that the perfect partner will appear in your journey at just the right time. That is so cool. When You get pack maybe you could email your Nepal photos to me so that I could share them with my class. ??? Just a thought. Have a wonderful weekend!
Laurie, when I get back home in late May, remind me to send you a DVD. Not a problem at all.. I would be honored if you shared some of my photos with your class.
Yes, Ursina was fun to pal around with. We also went to the World Heritage Site, Hanuman-Dhoka Durbar Square (yesterday), which is a magnificant complex of beautiful Hindu and Buddhist temples and shrines in the heart of Kathmandu. Unforgettable experience. I will probably post something on my blog in a couple of days (I am about 2 posts behind significant things I have done this week). Regarding Ursina, she is going to have the time of her life on this 9 day trek she is beginning tomorrow.
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Thank you for reblogging my post. Much appreciated!
2732 meters (8963 feet)? Dude, you are in NEPAL! I want to see a pic from at least 6,000 meters — and I don’t mean from an airplane.
Glad you’re having fun!
Gary, with your bum leg, I would be stuck carrying you up the mountain, especially after you took a shot at climbing these frickin’ stairs, that go on and on and on . . . These trails have NO switchbacks either, another feature that U.S. hiking trails have.
Yeah, doing well despite the chronic cough and bum knee.
You force me to defend myself. Don’t forget, I’ve climbed 39 14ers with this bum leg.
Have fun!
Touche weinie! Actually, I forgot that you did accomplish that amazing feat! So, my hat’s off to you. Nevertheless, you would have a hard time with this climb Gary. Hope you are well. I understand the cold has returned. You’re not alone, as Turkey is a bit chilly as well, albeit, not zero degrees.