Tags
Garesh, Hindu, Kathmandu, Maha Shivaratri, Nepal, Pashupatinath, Sadhu, Shiva, yogi
In yesterday’s post, I wrote about my visa experience at the Kathmandu Airport Customs and Immigration checkpoint; and, my visit to Boudhanath Buddhist Temple. Today, I’ll tell you about my visit to the Pashupatinath Temple. So many fascinating things occurred while I was there, including the visible washing of dead bodies by relatives and then their subsequent cremation. For some uninformed westerners not used to seeing such religious rituals, this might be a bit too much to process or even shocking. However, all of this has meaning in the Hindu religion.
For me personally, I learned so much yesterday from my guide, Mr. Richard Dvaz. Quite frankly, Richard, who was educated in Great Britain, should be giving lectures at universities and colleges about this place. He was so articulate and knowledgeable about the history of this site, as well as being an expert on the Hindu religion, that my visit here was enhanced immeasurably by having him as a guide. Thank you very much Richard and please feel free to comment and/or correct me on anything I convey here.
On Sunday (today in Nepal), the Maha Shivaratri Festival will happen. It lasts all day through tomorrow morning. Approximately 1.5 million people will make a pilgrimage to this site from not only Nepal, but from all over the world. Yesterday when I visited, thousands of people had already arrived, yet it was relatively easy to walk around the entire site. Again, without Richard leading the way, I would have been lost.
First it should be noted that Pashupatinath is a UNESCO designated World Heritage Site. Locally, it is known as an “open living Museum of Nepal.” The Pashupatinath Temple is one of the holiest temples of the world revered and worshiped by both Hindus and Buddhists. Pashupatinath is Lord Shiva, the God of Gods. Ancient Scriptures (the Vedas, Upanishads and Puranas) have described “Him as Lord of the entire living beings and the source of eternal bliss and peace.”
According to Richard, “In the sanctum of the temple stands what is called a Jyothirlinga (believed to have self appeared) the like of which is not found existent anywhere else in the world. It is a phallic symbol, the symbol of Pashupatinath which has four images carved on its four sides. In front of the west gate of the temple is kept a colossal image of a gold guilt bull seated with composure on its four legs and with its eyes fixed on Lord Pashupatinath inside It is mentioned in the Hindu scriptures that the bull is the carrier of Lord Shiva.”
Maha Shivaratri, the night of the worship of Lord Shiva, is celebrated on the 13th/14th night of the new moon, during the dark half of the month of Falgun as per the Hindu calendar each year. It is believed during this day Lord Shiva transformed and appeared as Shivalinga. Maha Shivaratri is celebrated with fasting and being awake all night. Hindus perform puja of Shiva all through the night in the temple. Sadhus (yogis) will smoke marijuana in celebration and honor of Shiva during Maha Shivaratri. Consequently, smoking marijuana is taken as “prasad,” i.e., holy food blessed by the Gods. Anyone else attempting to do this – for example, other worshipers – would be arrested by the local Kathmandu police.
Besides the Maha Shivaaratri festival, there are other festival days which are celebrated at Pashupatinath. One is Teej in the month of August. This is celebrated by women only. Women go on a fast and observe an overnight “visile” around the temple, singing and dancing. The other day that is celebrated, occurs in the month of November. It is called Balachaturdashi. It is the day on which men and women trek along a fixed path, scattering uncooked food grains over it for the departed souls for their eternal peace of their family members who have passed away early that year. The scattering of grains is basically a socio-religious ritual from what I have read.
Laurie said:
Steve, I could not be more envious of you at this moment. I am studying Ayurvedic Medicine and I so hope to make it there someday. Ganish….is the god of obstacles/opportunities; pending the perspective. I wish you could have video’d the master’s whom allowed you to have pictures with them. The higher consciousness….wow!
Thank you so much for sharing. I would love to see more.
Laurie
blade3colorado said:
That’s right – I forgot you are quite interested in this subject. If you don’t mind, I will edit my post with your additional information. Yes, I really enjoyed my time there yesterday. Richard told me that it wouldn’t be a good idea to return today for the festival, because the pickpockets (working in teams) specifically are looking for foreigners. With 1.5 million people at the Temple, you can’t help but be bumped into constantly. By the by, today I went to the Kopan Monastery and Nunnery. An amazing site that I will post a thread on tomorrow probably. I got some excellent photos there. Again, thank you for commenting and giving me additional information on Ganish.
blade3colorado said:
Thanks Laurie . . . I just edited the picture of Lord Garesha and credited you. 🙂
Laurie said:
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!! 🙂 I feel so blessed.
I had a very strong vision in being with Ganish when I was on Maui! So profound, especially after learning to pray with a Sangoma from Africa/Ireland. We are so surrounded by our guides that we don’t even know it. The energy on Maui is always so healing for me, I cannot imagine what that place would be like. I hope the energy there feels as good to you as it looks so bright to me! I can almost see the sparkles in the electricity. It truly pulls me.
blade3colorado said:
Yes Laurie, as I just indicated to James above, I found my entire time there quite interesting and learned so much about the Hindu religion and this site. Again, all of the credit goes to my guide, Richard, who’s knowledge about the site and the Hindu religion was outstanding.
gallivance.net said:
Hey Steve. When you said “not for the squeamish”, you’re spot on. We didn’t see any cremations in Nepal, but in Veranasi, India, the Ganges is a very holy place, and cremations go on non-stop. Like many of the Hindu rites we’ve seen around the world, they’re certainly interesting, but can take some fortitude for faint-hearted Westerners.
blade3colorado said:
Thank you for commenting James (or is this Terri? Grin). You’re absolutely right with regard to the cremations going on non-stop – there were at least a half dozen of them going on. I didn’t mention it in my post, but the caste system is very much a part of the Hindu religion, e.g., certain pyres were for common folk and other pyres were for business people (read rich), etc. Same thing with the river areas set aside for poor, middle class, and rich. Before I switched careers (occupational safety and health), I was on a medical emergency rescue team and have seen some horrific scenes, including death many times, so this didn’t affect me, but for others, especially children, I would stay away from this part of the temple. I found the entire site fascinating and was enthralled to be there, especially a day before the festival, with everyone arriving/preparing for it. By the by, today I visited the Kopan Buddhist Monastery and Nunnery, another fascinating place.
dirtnrocksnomo said:
Steve, I have been fascinated with this part of the world for a while. Any discussion on reality and perception with the three Sadhu? Great post and pics.
blade3colorado said:
Dirt, I have been interested in Nepal since the Beatles came onto the scene in the 60s. I’ve always thought it was exotic and mystical. I feel quite fortunate to have been able to travel here and I am just going with the flow, soaking everything in. The people are quite friendly (albeit, reserved). I have no problem going up to Nepalese and asking for directions or chatting about something/asking a question. All of my encounters have been very positive.
Today, I am either going to explore the tourist area of Kathmandu, Thamel; or, go to Bhaktapur Temple. Probably the latter if only because I am not into the night life or shopping schtick sort of stuff. Nevertheless, I will visit Thamel at least once while I am here, just to see what it is all about. I just don’t know if that is today or not. Take care and go Giants! I hope you are well Micah!
Steve
snarkk said:
Blade, all very good stuff. Educational.
Where/how did you find your guide?
This next question is not flippant. You said only Hindu’s could enter the sacred part of the temple. How do they know you are not a follower of Hinduism? To my understanding, a Hindu is not of any particular ethnicity, he/she is a believer in Hinduism. Or, is the assumption there that a Caucasian is not a believer?
Lovin’ your travel info, keep on it, dude!…
blade3colorado said:
Tom, he “glommed” onto me. Nine times out of ten, I would politely tell the guy to get lost, but I immediately observed that Richard knew WTF he was talking about. Sheesh, he spoke the English language better than I did. I am surprised I haven’t heard from him yet, because he was interested in providing other tours, as well as coordinating a trek for me (which I am uncertain about whether I am interested in doing or not). In any event, I gave him a shout via email and perhaps, he doesn’t have a pc, but has to go to a library or internet cafe.
Tom, good point about Hinduism. Despite how “cool” I look and the ease at which I fit in with the Sadhu (Yogi), I think I still stick out like a sore thumb and would have done something stupid. like go counter clockwise around a prayer wheel (grin). Oh wait! That’s Buddhism. Regardless, you can see my point. In short, everyone is on the honor system; and, moreover, I would have gotten grief at the gate, because they did have security checkpoints.
Mrs Sharon Vandrine said:
Hi Blade, thanks so much on behalf of my brother Richard D’vaz for the wonderful comments. This was brought to my attention yesterday and I am so glad and proud you had the pleasure of meeting my brother. Unfortunately Richard does not have access to a computer or nor does he have an e-mail address. I speak to him at the weekends and I will surely tell him about your write about him.
blade3colorado said:
I received some conflicting information (i.e., a comment to my blog) that was quite negative about Richard yesterday, but I didn’t publish it . . . I didn’t because my experience with Richard during the day he gave me a tour of the Pashupatinath was excellent and more important, I try to keep my blog as positive as possible. In any event, his knowledge of the Pashupatinath, Hindu religion and people were absolutely outstanding! Take care . . . Steve
snarkk said:
And, how’s the food situation? What/where are you eating in Katmandu?
Are you heading up at some point into the mountains?
blade3colorado said:
I had the national dish last night, which is called “Momo,” a dumpling that is filled with veggies, chicken, and/or mutton. I selected the chicken as a filling and it was delicious! The night before, I had lamb chops that were also delicious. Cost? You wont believe me when I say that it was approximately $12-13 dollars at a really nice restaurant. You gave me an idea for a short post – I took pictures of the lamb chops and my breakfast . . . I will couple it with the horrendous traffic I’ve observed.
Related to the traffic and your question about trekking – I thought I was coming down with a cold, but I think the culprit is the dust. Much of the city is dirt roads and it’s no wonder that many Nepalese have masks on. The last 3-4 places I have visited – Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Chaing Mai and even Pai had poor air quality. I am doing something every day and I think the pollution is causing the hacking cough. So, in answer to your question, I am uncertain about doing a trek.
wildernesswalking123 said:
Reblogged this on ww123.
blade3colorado said:
Thank you very much for reblogging my two posts on your site, as well as following my blog. I am humbled!
I also did and little bit of exploring at your site (I love the subject of “walking”) and decided to follow you as well. Again, thank you.
wildernesswalking123 said:
no probs! i only reblog quality sites…and yours is very definitely one of them! thanks for dropping in!
blade3colorado said:
Nevertheless, thank you for reblogging my post . . . Much appreciated!
wildernesswalking123 said:
😉
Carstie said:
Steve: Enjoying it. Definitely neither Sydney nor Kansas. lol. You’re doing a bang-up job with the pics. You do have a knack.
blade3colorado said:
Carstie, this is the most exotic place I have ever been to (perhaps Istanbul will trump it when I get there in a couple of weeks, but I doubt it). Thank you for the kind words. How is the Minn. winter coming along? In thaw mode yet?
TBM said:
Wow I’m envious of your travels and what you are seeing and learning.
blade3colorado said:
Thank you very much TBM. A bit under the weather today (cough), so taking a day off and staying close to my hotel. However, I am going hiking with a Swiss woman tomorrow and am looking forward to that.
Jaie said:
I came across your web page when I was looking for temples. I just wanted to thank you for showing the beauty of the places you have seen so far. Im looking forward to seeing more photos….
blade3colorado said:
Hi Jaie – that is so gracious of you to say that. I hope you continue to follow me. Thank you for stopping by!
Nadika said:
Hello Steven, glad that I we met at Shambaling and thanks for sharing your blog with me. Very interesting and it looks like you have seen most of the amazing places in Asia! Best of luck and see you again somewhere in the world!!!
blade3colorado said:
Hi Nadika and thank you for the kind comment about seeing “most of the amazing places in Asia.” Not true – at least compared to your travels. Your United Nations job has taken you to many, many more places than I have been to. I am so glad we were able to meet each other in Kathmandu. You’re right – we will probably run into each other again. It is after all a small world. 🙂
angel said:
So good to see someone appreciate the art and culture of nepal…..
Just to let you know the other son of lord shiva is lord kartikya, if you above his head you can see the sun and above lord ganesh you can see the moon…..
This signifies their nature, kartikya being agressive like the sun (he is said to be the general of army against the demons) and ganesh being calm like the moon.
The sun and the moon also symbolises their brotherly bond that they depend on each other and niether is complete without each other like the sun and moon.
blade3colorado said:
Angel, thank you for stopping by and commenting. Also for educating me a bit more about the Hindu religion.. I really enjoyed visiting Nepal and found the Buddhist religion fascinating as well.
raw jung thapa said:
it is said that civilization started at this very place, yoga had its first start here and as well its considered the place where holy men meditate being the foot hills of Himalaya calm and peace..
blade3colorado said:
Thank you for commenting my friend. I agree with what you have said.
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