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Hagia Sophia, Hamam, Istanbul, masseur, masseuse, Public toilet, Turkey, Turkish Bath

Turkish bath house. The building has stood for 600 years and apparently, the family which owns this bath house has operated it since the 18th century. Wow!
When you travel, you have to be a Plan B person. Stay flexible is my motto. The original round the world (RTW) plan was to hit the “hot and humid” countries first and then around late March, segue into the more frigid countries, which hopefully would be basking in early Spring like weather. My wardrobe choices such as t shirts, tank tops, and a couple of long sleeve shirts would be perfect for the weather I anticipated. In fact, I had been hauling around a fleece pullover, which I had worn on a cold freezing day in Denver nearly 3 months ago – to 4 countries before I dumped it in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Bye bye . . .

The guy with the towel on his shoulders was my masseur. Quite frankly, when I first saw him, I seriously thought about running. Gulp. This guy was big. Like World Wrestling Federation big. I am sort of scrawny; and, coupled with my relatively recent shoulder surgery, I seriously wondered if this guy would cause major damage to my body. Not too worry . . . He knew exactly what he was doing.
Boy, oh boy, did I mis-calculate. I’m not certain what the temperature was today, but I don’t think it got above 10-15 Celsius max. Oh, did I mention that it also rained? I had planned on going to the Hagia Sophia today, but the line was really long and I decided after 10 minutes of waiting in the rain and cold, that I would try again another day. I did get some excellent shots of the exterior though.
While walking back toward the Grand Bazaar and planning on buying a nice hoodie sweat shirt or fleece pullover, I saw this sign that said Turkish Bath. This was on my bucket list of things to do in Turkey and I said to myself, “Why not today?” The weather sucks and what a great way to treat myself. I went in and immediately was impressed with the family like atmosphere of the business. Not seedy at all. The “works” would cost 60 Lira, which is about $30 U.S. currency. This included a soap massage and bath, oil massage, hot sauna, and “Roman” swimming pool. I was down with that.
So what is a Turkish bath? First off, it’s called a Hamam and according to Wikipedia, “. . . it is a variant of a steam bath, sauna, or Russian bath, distinguished by a focus on water, as distinct from ambient steam.” The Turkish bath became popular in Western Europe in the Victorian era. The process to taking a Turkish bath is similar to a sauna, except that it is closer to to ancient Roman and Greek bathing practices.

The marble “table” in front is where the massage takes place. The marble floor in the background is very, very hot. I was told to lie down on it and it took me a while to lie prone on it. I felt like a lobster thrown in boiling water or perhaps a better analogy, would be a lamb chop placed on a frying pan. Ha.
When you take a Turkish bath, you first enter a “warm room,” i.e., a dry heat sauna (similar to a Swedish sauna with the hot rocks). I am very familiar with hot saunas and love to stay in them for a long time. This one was a bit overpowering with Eucalyptus scent, but I easily got use to it. The masseur assumed that I would only be in there for 10 minutes and I think he was impressed when I stayed in there for over 30 minutes. I met Fareed, a man from Saudi Arabia, who along with his family, was spending his last day in Turkey. Him and I chatted while we were par-boiled for 30 minutes.

Fareed, his wife and daughter after we all had been given the full Turkish bath treatment. The daughter was a bit upset because she was bathed by someone other than her mom. Women are given a Turkish bath in a separate area of the building and a woman masseuse is assigned to them. Afterwards, we were all served hot sweet tea. It was delicious.
After the warm room, we went into the main massage room where we laid down on this hot floor. I was already perspiring freely and this just accelerated the sweating. However, first I had to get used to the hot floor. It was extremely hot and it took me awhile to lie prone on the ground. Fareed was having the same difficulty, so I didn’t feel too much like a neophyte.

My masseur. I never did get his name, but he was quite friendly. As I said earlier, this dude is big, with large guns and hands. I didn’t know what to expect from him, but he was totally professional. All in all, a great experience and I will go back before I leave Turkey.
After the “hot floor” treatment, the actual soap bath and massage occurred. This lasted about 15 minutes. Damn, did it feel good. After the hot rinse, where large buckets of water are thrown on you, I received an oil massage. This lasted about 20 minutes. This felt wonderful, especially for my back and legs. Another hot rinse and once again, I sat on the hot floor for 20 minutes, before entering the cold “Roman” bath.

Another section of the ceiling, which I found fascinating. This was the catalyst for me asking how old the building was. I was floored when they said 600 years old.
I really enjoyed my experience at the Turkish bath house and will probably return before I leave Istanbul. A couple of you have written me in emails (I wont say who) asking questions about the restrooms here and a couple of other countries I have visited. All of my hotels in all the countries I have traveled to, have had traditional western toilets and showers. However, most public restrooms have a flat porcelain toilet, where you have to . . . umm, kneel down to do . . . umm, number 2. As I have indicated previously, you should try to make damn sure that you don’t have to do anything involving stooping or using toilet paper when entering a public restroom. At my age, I have a difficult time, getting into the “catcher’s position” and I sure as hell am not going to demonstrate my ability to do so in a public restroom in a foreign country.

This is the “Royal Royce” of flat porcelain toilets. I finally remembered to take a photo of one and fortunately, this one was fairly clean.

Basically, the procedure is to do your “thing,” then fill that pink bucket with water and . . . umm, use it to “flush” your stuff down that drain. By the by, the toilet paper dispenser? It was empty. You will usually find this to be the case. This is the main reason you want to carry toilet paper. Better yet, do your thing in the hotel room and you don’t have to even worry about these situations. 🙂
Ahh.. brings back memories. Except I had a man massage me. How does your skin feel now?? 🙂 Good idea for wanting to get nice n’ toasty. Are you going to try to do Hagia Sophia some other time soon?
P.S. 10 to 15 degrees is not that cold!!! Freezing cold is more like how it is here: -5 degrees Celsius. And that’s considered only relatively cold compared to how it gets in the dead of winter…. 😛
Well, I am still a bit confused about Celsius conversion from Farenheit. It was damn cold though because everyone else had mufflers, jackets and beanies on, while I had a long sleeve guatemalan thin cotton shirt on. 🙂
By the by, where the heck are you?
Canada!
Well, then I imagine that it is quite cold. Woe is you. 🙂
Not for long! I will be in NZ in 2.5 weeks! 😀
I hope you are renting a car. The only way to see NZ. Make sure that Greymouth is one of your central stops – it’s a good location to go North and South on the west coast of the South island.
Yep, goin’ all around the South Island. I wish I had more time off work to keep going to the North Island. But so incredibly excited to see the South Island!
I have some good info in posts about places I have gone in the S. Island. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks, will do!
Interesting stuff, Blade. The “toilet” piece reminded me of my travels with the Air Force to Saudi Arabia. Agree…do your business in the hotel if at all possible.
Great pictures as always. Hope the weather warms for you. Enjoy your travles. Will you venture out to other parts of Turkey?
Thanks Chi. I don’t mean to be purposefully provocative (e.g., talking about toilets), but it’s difficult to keep a blog interesting with travelogue photos each post. 🙂
I will probably get another pullover or sweatshirt today, but first I have to check into my new hotel today. I just left the one I was at, after the reception desk manager tried to “extract” more money from me . . . He said, “Umm, we can extend your stay possibly, but it would cost more.” I told him nicely to “f” off. I read about this scam in WikiSherpa (he isn’t the lone ranger, as this happens at many mid to lower range Istanbul hotels). Except it isn’t happening to me. I found a place as nice, near the Grand Bazaar and it is nearly 40 Euros cheaper. That is significant.
No idea at this point whether I will go to other places outside Turkey. I might rent a car, since they actually drive on the right side of the road. HAHAHA. We shall see. Everything I do on this RTW trip is winging it, with a bit of planning. Things seem to go better that way.
Blade, brings back memories of my first trip abroad in 1977! Just 2 naive college kids from Calif on their way to Iran to make our fortune in the oil business :). When the big burly guy walked out with a grin on his face and started to walk on my friends back, I was literally rofl. Then my guy appeared, even bigger and motioned to me to lie still. I think we both laughed through most of the massage. Great time and a pretty good massage. Never had anything that intense until I got rolfed years later. The 14-15c marble bath house looked much like the one in the pictures.
Great story Salty. Ironically, Fareed and I were sort of chuckling too at certain things our masseur did. Our masseur didn’t speak a word of English, but his gestures and his whistles, when he wanted your attention were hilarious. Good sense of humor – I only wish I understood Turkish or Arabic, so I could appreciate this guy’s humor fully. You’re also correct that this is a classic design for a Turkish Bath House.
By the by, good line about making your fortune in the oil business. LMAO!
Great story Steve. Planning clothing for an RTW is almost an impossible task. My approach was light layers, Gortex coat, thermal under layer, Ts, etc, and then purchase other stuff along the way. I really appreciated the detailed info on the turkish bath. I’ve never had one, and now I know why. And there’s no experience like your first “Persian Version”. ~James
Thank you James. I just got my sweat shirt out of the laundry today, but still may purchase a fleece pullover. Still up in the air about it. Ironically, I just posted about the Grand Bazaar and had a few chances to purchase additional clothing, but it was so toasty inside the GB, that I forgot about being cold earlier. Grin.
The Turkish Bath was wonderful, not only because it felt fantastic, but moreover due to the fact that I was doing something steeped in tradition going back hundreds of years. It was quite an experience.
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